Woke up so late today. The blockout curtains in this room are bloody awesome, no matter what time of the morning you wake up you think it is still the middle of the night.
Hobbit took a while to get ready so I took a quick walk into town and did some shopping. I found a really cool Billabong top and some souvenirs for friends. All my friends who are into dark shit that say they have to wait each year for Halloween to find new things to decorate their house, well I have to wait for trips to Shark Bay. I have always loved shark ornaments and 'things' and they were always really hard to find. You always see dolphins, whales, and all the happy creatures but sharks with their bad reputation are few and far between. In Shark Bay there are loads of shark themed things so I load up when I can. Admittedly, the last few years have seen a rise in shark popularity as people become more ecologically aware and more educated in the fact that not all sharks are like the lead character from Jaws, so I have seen some things pop up lately. I am glad about this because sharks are the most amazing creature on the planet, ever since I was a kid I always wanted to be Valerie Taylor and study sharks. I wonder if my ADD was diagnosed earlier and I was able to study better if I had of made it? It was a consistent theme throughout my school reports that I always enjoyed science especially when it was about living things.
Anyways, back on track...
We packed the car and took off to do a drive to see Denhams delights. But for the first time ever, this time I drove. I told Hobbit that it was my turn and for once he just handed me the keys. Cool! We have done this drive before but while we are here it is worth having another look, plus from experience we know that no matter how many times you visit the same spots they always change due to tides, weather, seasons, council rehabilitation and things like storms and floods.
Our first stop was shortly out of Denham, it was the Denham lookout point. Most of the turn-offs for scenic roads are unsealed roads, the main ones are corrugated so people like us in a sedan can utilise them, but there are a great deal which are 4WD access only. We can't wait to come back here and check those out when we have our 4WD. We had a look at the town quirky icon, Thong Shack, which is an old beach shelter that for some reason someone hung a pair of thongs off and then everyone thereafter decided to follow suit. It is really hilarious and so worth a bit of time to read all the messages left on the thongs (there is a marker there so you can write on your thongs before you leave them). Some are birthdays, backpackers naming their country of origin, memorials, poems, messages, 'Pete was ere 2016' type notes, and many more. Just as we were on our way out we bumped into Jack, our tour guide from yesterday, he was in his truck looking for a quiet fishing spot. We had a lovely little chat, it was so nice to see him again and meet his partner. I love this family, they are worth their weight in gold, just so lovely. He asked us if we had photos of the python we saw yesterday on our tour, unfortunately our photos were not the best, but he was regretful because apparently it is extremely rare to see these pythons out there and this one was massive at 2m, and really stunning (and so close too!). We wish we had better photos.
Our next stop was at Fowlers Camp road. This took us up to a big hill which we walked up and got a beautiful view of the bays leading up to Denham. It is a bit of a steep walk up and there are a few loose rocks and prickly bushes so it is advisable you wear sneakers. We really had the perfect day for this, the sunshine was lovely and warm and the wind had dropped off, the forecast said that over the three days the temp got hotter and hotter and the winds got less and less, how lucky we are. We took a load of photos of this beautiful place whilst navigating all the rock hills and peaks, absorbing the views and enjoying the sounds of the gentle seas lapping onto the edge of the shore whilst sea birds circled and smooth winds whooshed past our ears. I wonder what the guys back in the office are doing? I asked Hobbit. I am so glad I am here. It is going to be so hard to go back.
Back on our drive we came across Whalebone Beach Road next, a place that was familiar to us as we had a picnic lunch and swim here on our last trip. It is a really pretty little spot and like many other Denham points the views are out of this world. This time we discovered that the tides were a load lower so we could walk right around the many rock cliffs that jut out into the ocean. We walked for quite some time finding many little secluded bays. The water was so warm and the sun even started to get a bite to it. We decided this a great spot to go 'naturist' (something we try and do every trip, well I do, and Hobbit shyly follows sometimes - if he is feeling brave, lols!), with this being non peak season there is hardly anyone around anyway so little chance of being caught. Oh, I nearly forgot, we saw quite a large sting ray swimming across the waters edge in this area. It was really cool and I caught it on my mobile phone video. I love watching rays gliding along the sand, like gentle hovercrafts, silently and gracefully searching the sands for food with the edges of their wings guiding them along as if a magic carpet ride. Those eyes on top of their head that peek out like little black beads and that long menacing tail with its threatening barb, reminding me that nature is there to be quietly observed and respected from a safe distance. Live and let live.
Goulet Bluff was our next non 4WD access turn off and this was my absolute favourite of all. I remembered climbing the hill when I was here this time last year and being so mesmerized by the views, but my memory failed to remind me just how impressive this area was. I know I spent a lot of time on top of the hill here last time and this time was no different. With 360 degree panoramic views atop the highest hill you can see shell beach behind you, the shark bay waters in front of you, and Denham to the right. A little over the hill we looked down at the waters that plunged many meters below us and it was to my sheer delight that we saw waters absolutely teaming with sharks. I have been to the Coral Bay shark nursery before and seen baby sharks circling the tidal pools, but this was something else, it was next level! I couldn't believe my luck to see such a scene as last time the sharks weren't there. See, visit the same places and see completely different things. We stood and watched those sharks for ages, they were all just swimming up and down the coastline, it looked like the freeway at peak hour only this was fish not cars. They looked like they were around a meter long, some longer some smaller, but we couldn't tell what species they were. Just so many of them, it was brilliant! Now I know how Shark Bay got its name, the early settlers must have been blown away to see this. It is a piece of paradise here. I think we spent a good hour here climbing hills, taking photos and videos, standing silently taking it all in, and fixing it into the memory bank.
We then ventured over to Nanga Camp, a really gorgeous little site, they call themselves a 'resort' but really it is more of a caravan park with a few chalets and cabins scattered around and a little pool in the middle. The place was empty like a ghost town, but we were so impressed by how it was set out and its location. The beach is probably one of the better ones for swimming in the area as it has a deeper drop off close to shore (most beaches are shallow for miles and miles), and there is little seaweed and a bit of swell. The camp grounds themselves are set out so well, but the most impressive part was the outdoor kitchen and eating area. I can just imagine when it is peak season how much fun this place could be, so social and lots of fun. There is a little shop which has assorted supplies, the walls are covered with fading photos of fishermen and their catches, big happy and exhausted smiles on their sunkissed faces, clearly proud as punch of their kill - soon to be dinner. It made me see this place as one that had a long history of returning families and fishermen, lots of adventures and joy has been shared within these boundaries. I think to myself how it would have been so nice to be born a lot earlier than I was born, to be a part of something in its early days that then grew, to experience things in its days before development and modernisation. Many towns you visit have little plaques on their walls dedicated to the people who played their part in building the town to what it was, much loved characters who graced the local bars with their daily presence, they were known and loved by all and honored in their departure. I have the thought that it is sad that now everything is already developed how the chance to be that person is no longer available. Towns are busy and bustling and already established, so you come in as an intruder to something that already has its history. That is where the city makes you feel so alone. The more people around you, the more you realise that none of them know you or even care about your presence. I love the feels you get in small towns where every single person counts and plays their part. Did I get sidetracked? Obviously my meds wore off already hahahaha.
We decided to have a swim at Shell Beach as by now the winds had picked up and we figured this would be a more sheltered spot seeing as the winds were coming from the bay. Originally we were going to go as far as Hamelin Bay but it was getting later and we still wanted to get back for Jag the Joker at the pub from 5 to 7. So we had a bit of a dip at Shell Beach, well Hobbit did, i went in ankle deep, decided it was too cold, then went back to sit on my towel and read a book. If you haven't been to Shell Beach it is the place where shell grit comes from. It is miles and miles of beach (60 km to be precise) which instead of sand has tiny little white shells called Fragum Erugatum, little cockle shells that live in the very salty waters of this area. The bay is so impressive when you arrive, it is clean white and goes as far as the eye can see. The water is almost still, tiny little ripples from the wind and tide, but no waves. It is clean and clear, you can literally see for miles out to sea, and very shallow for a long stretch. I would say you have to walk for at least 100 meters before you reach water that you can sit or swim in. For the tourist it is definitely a site of wonderment, and worth the trip. The local council has done a fantastic job to erect signage which educates you about the shells and the area as well as the history of mining for shell grit and the cat/fox proof fence which is designed to protect Shark bay from introduced species in the parklands.
For some reason, as we got back to the car I threw the keys back to Hobbit and told him he could drive home. This turned out to be somewhat of a life saving decision because on the way home a large emu jumped out of the bushes at us and it was just some very quick thinking and smart driving on Hobbits behalf that not only saved the emus life, but perhaps ours as well. It definitely saved us a tonne of repair work to a damaged car as well. The emu thank goodness was not even hit, but for quite some time Hobbit and I were in shock and all pumped up with the adrenaline rush. We reflected on how lucky we are that with all the driving we have done since we met, we have never killed an animal, something that would certainly traumatize both of us.
A lovely long hot shower and hair wash later, I was feeling more human and less 'saltwater crusty demon' so we headed to the Shark Bay Tavern to Jag the Joker. We got our first drinky and much to our delight bumped into Capes who was enjoying his 50th birthday party. We had a nice chat, Hobbit was glowing with pride when Capes told him he did really well on the didge and to keep practicing. He gave him some more tips on how to work it so Hobbit plans on getting one when we get back home so he can keep it going. I reckon he will do really well, he has great lung capacity. We met the local policeman who was a lovely gentleman with tales of working many country towns, and then I bumped into Mira, Capes lovely partner. It was a fun fueled sesh but unfortunately we didn't Jag the Joker, so have to keep saving for that 4WD hahaha. We decided to have dinner at the hotel but there wasn't anything on the menu I could eat with my lap band, and they told us the chef will not vary his menu for anyone. Tried the Pearler Restaurant, a quaint little place built out of shell grit from shell beach, but they were no longer accepting patronage as the chef was too busy and had sold out of most dishes, go figure? So we ended up at the Heritage where hobbit got his carbonara he was craving and I got a schnitzel with mushroom gravy, mash and veg. Lovely meal and the chef was kind enough to alter it for me, with no worry.
Here I am now, back in my cozy room listening to the howling winds outside (it is always really windy at night), watching Star Wars 3, and writing this blog. I cant believe we only have 2 sleeps left here, one full day. It has gone so very quickly and to be honest I could easily spend another two weeks and still not see all the things I want to see and do all the things I want to do. This really is a little treasure trove of fascination. Look at me, I've not left yet and am already thinking about coming back.
Again, I have so many wonderful photos of my adventures today that it is going to be really very hard choosing just 9 to publish, but I will try and find a good assortment that reflect the adventures I have written about. One particular photo I really love is that of one lonely little wildflower I found growing near a cliff edge with the most amazing views behind it. A little purple bottle brush looking bloom that was the only one of its kind I had seen in that area. Just doing its thing and moving to and fro in the gentle breeze.
Today was a top notch day.
I have to thank my dearest Hobbit for being such a wonderful travel companion. I can't think of anyone more perfect for me to spend my time with on vacation. He is fun, caring, looks out for me, pushes me when I need it (as in up steep hills lols!) and helps me down when i am unsure of my footing. I don't think these adventures would be anywhere near as cool without him to share them with. Not for one moment do I take for granted how lucky I am to have found such a perfect match. I know so many wonderful people out there who still haven't found theirs, or who are stuck in a relationship that is less than functional (some even very destructive), so I feel like it is quite a lotto to be someone that finds your perfect someone.
