Tammy Rodrigues
- Aug 18, 2020
- 10 min read

Denham August 2020 Day 4

Updated: Sep 18, 2020

We got up at sparrows fart to head off early on a driving adventure to Quobba to see the blowholes. The alarm went off at 7am and we sprung out of bed ready to go seeing as we packed most of the stuff the night before.

Managed to head off by 7.30 as planned and drove off leaving Denham behind us on what the weather forcast predicted to be the best weather day of the trip. The least wind, not the warmest day (that will be tomorrow but the wind will also pick up then) which should be perfect to walk around the rocky cliffs of Quobba.

The drive was lovely and thank goodness had no wildlife interactions. We were still amazed at how different the landscape looks at this time of year, so green after all the scattered rains. Not the usual red dusty lands we are used to in this neck of the woods. We plugged some tunes into the Ipod and cruised along, first stop being at Overlander Roadhouse, a fantastic place to stop that has really good food, lots of groceries and snacks, and some of the coolest souvenirs and trinkets available. I bought a couple of funky Overlander Roadhouse microfibre tee-towels (one for me, and a gift for the house-sitter) and a lovely iron ore pendant on a black rubber necklace. I had to take a couple of photos of the car park because it was like a swimming pool, one big puddle of rain water. Not something you see that often at all. Hobbit, being the big kid he is, wanted to drive the car through it (He thinks he is Peter Brock) and I had to convince him not to because there was absolutely no indication as to what depth this puddle was and I would be humiliated if we got stuck in the middle of it, water gushing in the doors, having to rely on some amused 4WD owner to winch us out! *SHAKES HEAD* With a fuel tank now full and us wanting to reach our destination we hopped back in the car and got back on the road.

Overlander Roadhouse motel carpark after a big downpour of rain

By 11am we hit Carnarvon and did a little detour to the plantation road where all the fruits and vegetables are for sale at the plantation roadside shops. I had coasted along this way on my last trip alone (I am a bit more of a dordler than Hobbit, I amble here and there and everywhere whilst he just gets to where he is going) and found the most unusual little find. There is a complete whale skeleton out the front of one of the plantations and I wanted to show this to Hobbit. It is unusual because it is just an ornament by the roadside in someones front yard. They must be a cactus enthusiast also because the whale is surrounded by all kinds of overgrown cacti. I am so proud of myself for finding this because if you google you wont see it anywhere, it is one of those lesser known attractions that unless you are cruising around you will totally miss it.

Finally found it and I was glad to see it was still there. As it is unprotected I always hope that some nutjob doen't steal it or some hooligan destroy it. We hopped out the car and had a really good look around it, feeling the rough weathered bones and marvelling at the grandness of the structure. It must be a baby humpback, not too long, but long enough to be impressive. We took some really lovely pictures, posing in the ribcage that curved above our heads and in front of the massive jawbone that once filtered the grand oceans for morsels of food. I wonder what happened to this little feller? Was it a natural demise or was there sinister human intervention? It saddens me to think how our species will shamelessly treat such peaceful and magnificent creatures.

This is located on S River Road, behind BP Outback Travel Centre, then to the left headed along the Blowholes road to Quobba. All part of the Fruit Loop Drive.

After our photo session we took the back road behind the plantations around through to the back of Carnarvon towards Quobba. It wasn't too long before we hit the turn-off to Quobba Blowholes and Quobba Station. Originally I had tried to book us some accommodation at Quobba, thinking it might be somewhere new to stay we hadn't stayed before but due to Covid19 and the State being in lockdown, all the people who normally go interstate and overseas are doing WA Road Trips so everywhere is totally booked out. I was lucky to get our villa at Bay Lodge as it was actually the last place left in all of Denham and Monkey Mia apart from tent grounds.

Our timing was impeccable, we aimed to reach Quobba before 12 and we got there at 11.45am. We set ourselves the timeframe of 2 hours so that we could leave Quobba and be back at Denham by 6.30pm before it got too dark. The sun was shining, the wind was not crazy (but it is always blowy at Quobba) and we were delighted to see the blowholes doing their thing as we pulled in to the car park clearing.

Of course we stopped at the "King Waves Kill" sign (which stands tall as your drive into Quobba Carpark) for the shameless touristy photos! We ARE tourists afterall.

We both put on our fishermans rock-hoppper boots (the safest option when walking any rocky area, they give you an amazing grip and will save your neck, and possibly your life) and started walking to the cliff edge to get closer to the action.

Now, I know there are blowholes in a few places around the WA coast, but I always love the Quobba ones not just for the actual blowholes but also just to soak in the whole scenery. There is just nothing like that turquiose ocean smashing against the battered and jagged edges of the segmented rock cliffs. I think there is nothing more mesmerising than watching an angry, menacing ocean. Today was no exception, it was a sight that you simply have to see to understand fully. It makes you feel so weak and insignificant when you are standing there watching this torrid ocean sending its wild waves up against the rocks towards you, you know that one wrong move or one King Wave would mean certain death. You can tell that beneath the swell it is a deep ocean, and that in all those meters of water there are swirling currents and knife sharp pointed rocks and reef. I imagine there is a very real reason why as you drive towards the waters edge there is a massive sign overhead that says "KING WAVES KILL" I wonder how many have perished here? A quick google showed me that many had, mostly in the pursuit of a fishing adventure, and sadly some due to just not understanding or respecting the unpredictability and wildness of nature.

We got many beautiful videos of the Quobba Blowholes this day, but I particularly like this one as it shows just how high they spout up into the air compared to Hobbit standing in the background, as well as the rest of the beautiful coastline. WA is endless beauty.

After a while of photographing, videoing, and watching the blowholes in all their power, we went for a walk along the rocky edges of the cliffs. Every bit of rock was etched into a wonderful design from thousands of years of pounding waves. There are ledges and natural steps, but you dare not climb down as you can see by their glistening wet surface that the unpredictable tides have crept in and out pounding them. As we stared out, a couple of ladies yelled "WHALES!" so we studied the sea and right in front of us they surfaced, spouting water as they breathed and breaking the turquise sea with a cap of white as they rolled up and down with their arched backs and great big fin through the water. They put on a spectacular display flicking their tails right out of the water and cruising slowly past us. It was something we did not expect but were elated to witness. As they cruised out of sight we went back to our exploring of the area.

Unfortunately this video wasn't the best sighting we had of them but I was so engrossed watching them that I forgot to pick up my camera, you know it is GOOD when I forget to take images! lols.

Lots of little tidal pools uncovered a bountiful little viewing of crabs, snails, little fish, hermit crabs, shells, and beautifully rounded rocks that were swirled with the remnants of being part of what was once, I guess, an abundant coral base. Further up we found a massive boulder just perched atop a flat area of rocks and under it was a trickling stream of seawater that was gently passing under it. I sat listening for a while as it sounded so peaceful, a stark contrast to the pounding waves not far away. Funny how water can be so different depending on its surrounds. As we neared Quobba point we were amazed at how the coastline had changed from cliffs to a lovely little lagoon area that was all rocky and reefy, perfect for a snorkel and peaceful swim. We noted that further down there were quite a few camper vans all set up and a 4WD access roadway. We made a note of this place as another one to visit when we eventually get ourselves a 4WD of our own. There is still SO much to do and see here and we definitely need to return with time up our sleeve and the right vehicle to access it.

We spend so much of our time on holidays exploring tidal pools and beachcombing. The hours pass so quickly when you are enjoying nature.

As time was running out we decided to walk back via the gravel road way. Not as scenic but a good rest on the legs that were now very tired from climbing rocks and brains that were exhausted from concentrating on where and how to step. Many people had come and gone to see the famous blowholes and I noted how many were wearing thongs. Man, those rocks are like razors, one slip and I can imagine how easy it would be to end up with lacerations that need suturing. I would strongly advise anyone who wants to do these kind of trips to purchase a pair of rockhoppers (if you can't, then at the very least wear good grippy tightly laced sneakers) I have used mine so much over the years and they have definitely offered me some grippy safe walking where others would be arse over tit in just thongs or sneakers. And always carry a First Aid Kit. When you are remote, there are no medics for hours, prevention is way better than cure and preparation can save lives.

We drove up to the top of the hill prior to leaving and had a look at the lighthouse standing proudly announcing itself to passing boats in the torrid seas. It was built in 1950 and apparently the swirling staircase came from an old disused lighthouse in Point Cloates. A beautiful panoramic view of the whole coast, you can still see the blowholes from the distance, looking like whales clearing their airholes in the distance. Well worth the little drive up, which we managed to do in a Ford Mondeo Sedan, just go cautiously as there are a few potholes that could be damaging if you don't manouvre around them.

We head out back on the road, leaving behind us an amazing day. Both of us quite exhausted but exhilarated at the same time. It was nice to sit in a warm wind free car and just plug out some road trip tunes on the ipod. Signing along to The Doobie Brothers, Eric Burden, Janice Joplin, INXS, and many other classics the time goes fast as the landscape whizzes past your window, easily sending you off into little drifts of snooze here and there.

A quick stop at Carnarvon to use the restroom and grab more snacks (coz there is no such thing as too many snax!) we didn't have another stop till we got to Overlander where we were aiming on refuelling the car, which by now was on 1/4 tank of gas. Oh no, 98% had sold out! With only the 91% left (which the Mondeo doesn't take) we had no choice but to get back to Denham with the fuel we had left. Hopefully Denham Fuel station sells 98% or 95%, or we will be quite stuffed and stranded! Can you imagine calling your boss on Monday "Sorry I can't come in, I am stuck in Denham with no petrol!" what a shame huh.

When you talk to locals and tell them you are heading out on a day trip, they always warn you not to drive back into Denham at sunset. This is for very good reason. You are driving straight into a glaring sun. It is fiercely angled straight at you at a pesky level that is too low for the sun visor and kinda just gleams through any angle you try and get away from it at. But, we had no choice, we knew if we wanted a day out of this length we would have to drive back at this time. Similar to our drive down this road on our initial entry to Denham later at night when it was dark, again we took it slow as vision was poor and there are always emus, kangaroos, and echidnas wandering around.

Hit town at 6.45pm just to catch a last glimpse of the sun setting over the sea. Such a magical ending to a magical day. The few clouds scattered around made for a lovely display of orange, pink, and gold. Stopped in at the servo and to our dismay they were also sold out of 98% fuel. Luckily we asked the staff who informed us that the tanks are due to be fillled tomorrow so hopefully if we decide to head out again for the day we can fill up once the tanker has been through, so long as he comes early in the day. If he comes later, no fuss, we can easily enjoy a day around the main townsite. This is something to consider when travelling Australia, if your car only takes a certain fuel there are a lot of stops where the fuel supply is limited or sometimes out, so always fill up whenever you can and carry fuel cans if going really remote.

Back home we unpacked the car of all the shit we had laden it up with for the day. When you go on Aussie bush adventures and the weather is unpredictable you take a load of stuff. Heavy jackets, light jackets, sun shirts, singlets, bathers, towel, sunsucreen, bug spray, hat, thongs, sneakers, rock hoppers, aqua shoes, socks, and then you also pack a load of water, some food, snax, a book, the ipod, first aid, phones, phone chargers, blah blah.... you get the picture! So once that was done we had a long hot relaxing shower and I cooked a dinner of shnitzel with salad. There was a movie marathon of Lethal Weapon 2 and Mad Max 1 so we lazed around watching those until we drifted off to a content, blissful sleep.

So many wonderful images of this spectacular place. What a day!